Plant-Based Beauty |Thoughtfully Chosen | Natural Care for Hair & Skin

How do Natural Dyes Work

May 19, 2022

Just as leaves and seeds can be used to dye natural fibres, some plants can be used to colour hair naturally. The natural dyes in these plants adhere to the hair and develop their colour through oxidation.

Henna, Indigo and Senna (Cassia) are dried powdered leaves containing naturally occurring dye molecules that interact with the keratin, the protein that makes up the hair.

Henna, Indigo and Senna each produce different natural colours:

  • Henna contains an orange-red dye and can produce shades from orange-red through to auburn.
  • Indigo contains a blue-green dye and, when combined with Henna, can produce shades from light brown through to brown-black.
  • Senna (Cassia) contains a naturally occurring yellow dye and can give blonde and golden tones, particularly on light or greying hair.

Henna binds particularly well with keratin, which is why its colour tends to be long-lasting. Indigo and Senna do not bind in the same way as Henna and may need to be refreshed more often.

Natural Hair Dye Colour Combinations

Henna, Indigo and Senna can be combined in different proportions to create a wide range of natural hair colours, particularly on grey or lighter hair.

Some general colour possibilities include:

Natural Hair Dye Possible Colour Result
Henna Orange-red to auburn
Henna + Indigo Light brown to brown-black
Senna (Cassia) Light blonde on greying blonde hair
Henna + Senna (Cassia) Strawberry blonde to copper red
Henna + Senna (Cassia) + Indigo Dark blonde through to neutral and cooler blonde shades
Indigo Blue to green-blue

The final colour will depend on your starting hair colour and the proportions of each botanical dye used.

Why Natural Hair Dye Results Can Vary

If you use the same natural hair dye mix on different people, you may find that the results are slightly different. This is completely normal.

Plant dyes do not change the natural melanin in your hair. Instead, their colour develops through their interaction with the hair's keratin. Hair can vary considerably in its structure and porosity, so some hair absorbs botanical dyes more readily than others.

For some people, one application may be enough to achieve the desired colour. Others may need to repeat the process a couple of times to build up the colour.

Once you achieve the colour you want, it can be long-lasting. You may then only need to colour the new growth, although you can apply the colour to the whole head whenever you want to refresh or deepen the shade.

Always Do a Strand Test First

There are general guidelines for creating different shades, but the best way to work out how a particular colour will look on your hair is to do a strand test first.

You can use some hair collected from your hairbrush for your test. This allows you to experiment with different Henna, Indigo and Senna proportions before applying the colour to your hair.

Natural plant dyes can sometimes look quite bright immediately after the first rinse. Don't be too quick to re-colour if the colour initially looks lighter or brighter than expected.

Allow around one to two weeks for the colour to oxidise and develop further before deciding whether you need another application.

When in doubt, start with a lighter shade. It is easier to apply another colour treatment to deepen the colour than it is to lighten hair that has become too dark.

Natural Colour Additives for Henna, Indigo & Senna

Some fruit juices, fruit powders and other botanical ingredients can be added to Henna, Indigo and Senna mixtures to create additional colour tones. However, many of these additives are not as long-lasting or shelf-stable as the botanical hair dyes themselves and may wash out after a few washes.

  • Beetroot powder or puréed beetroot added to Henna may give a slight burgundy tone, but this colour will wash out relatively easily.
  • Madder can temporarily stain hair a rich red, but the colour fades after a few washes.
  • Red Hibiscus flower, soaked overnight and added to Henna, may give some red highlights, but the effect is not long-lasting and will wash out.

Amla Powder for a Softer Henna Tone

Amla Powder, also known as Indian Gooseberry, is a dried powdered berry.

Amla does not contain a hair dye of its own, but when used with Henna it can help mute the brightness of Henna. Amla contains natural acids that can lend cooler, ashier tones to Henna, Indigo and Senna colour mixes.




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